Common questions for gas water heaters with battery ignition
It is annoying if your (new) device does not work after installation. We will do our best to provide you with a working device. That is why this page contains the most frequently asked questions. There are 2 important points that we want to mention:
- Make sure that the water heater is installed as prescribed in the enclosed manual. It is therefore important to read this carefully before contacting us.
- Before going through the questions below, it is important that you look carefully and listen to what the water heater does and does not do This information may be important to diagnose the problem and may also be requested by our service team.
- The device does nothing
- No water is coming out of my water heater
- Water goes in but only cold water comes out
- I hear the water heater ticking but…
- The water heater worked but not anymore
- The flue pipe generates too little draft
- More reasons that the water heater turns on and the off again
- The water is not getting hot enough
- My water heater is leaking water
- I close the tap but the geyser remains lit (for a while)
1.The device does nothing
The device cannot start for various reasons due to technical defects, incorrect installation or other external reasons. In many cases, checking and remedying the points below can make your water heater work smoothly again.
- Check if the water flows over the "right" side of the appliance. When the incoming and outgoing water flow are reversed, the device will not work. Incoming water (cold) should be connected on the right side (when looking at the device, see photo 4).
- Is the battery still "full" and polarised correctly (+/-). Batteries that have been in the cabinet for some time may sometimes have insufficient capacity for the water heater to function properly, so we always recommend installing new batteries. With some batteries, also remember that any protective film and / or plastic caps must be properly removed.
- Check that there is still sufficient gas and that the gas tap to the water heater is open. Please note, with a new gas bottle it is possible that there is still some air in the pipes, a few reboots is enough to bleed the device.
- Is there sufficient water pressure present? The water pressure must not fall below 0.5 Bar, a protection then shuts off the electronics and ignition will not be possible. Remove any kinks in the supply hose or provide extra pressure on the water pipe, for example with a water pump.
Another cause of too little water pressure can also be pollution, this can for example be lime or pollution that is in the sieve at the water supply. In this case, clean the sieve and connect the device "reversed", so cold water supply at the outlet and rinse the device with plenty of water for a long time to wash away any contamination.
- Is the micro switch working properly? With the models TTulpe B6 / 11/14 a "hammer" goes up, you can see this when the front cover is off (see photo 2). This hammer goes up when water starts to flow, which releases a small white button. If the hammer does go up but the white button does not appear, the micro switch is defective.
For other models, the following may apply. If you look into the geyser from below (without the cover it is easier to see), you will see a small black block with a metal tab between the 2 rotary knobs. When water starts to flow, this metal tab should move to the right. This tab releases a small orange button. If the tab does open but the orange button does not appear, the micro switch is defective (for the Cointra models, the left rotary knob must also be open, because it is connected to a micro switch, so the same control applies as above).
- Finally, we would like to ask you to check whether all the connectors are still firmly in place, if necessary, first click them loose and then reassemble them. A connector may not make good contact due to transport or installation. Make sure that the connector is put back in the right place.
We hope that your water heater will work through these points. Should this not be the case, he should at least do something e.g. "I hear the water heater tap, but ...". In this case, look at our other FAQs that best reflect your situation.
2. No water is coming out of my water heater
As much water flows out through a water heater as it enters, if no water or less water flows out of the water heater than expected, one of the steps below can solve this.
- Check the water supply for blockage, kinks or other obstructions.
- Check that there is no dirt at the connection of the water heater. This can be, for example, lime or contamination that is in the sieve at the water supply. In this case, clean the sieve and connect the device "reversed", so cold water supply at the outlet and rinse the device with plenty of water for a long time to wash away any contamination.
- Is the tap open / pipe free after the water heater? Also check for obstructions here. For example, whether the shower head still flows sufficiently.
3. Water goes in but only cold water comes out
- Check that the water supply and drainage are properly connected. The water supply must be connected to the inlet connection (right connection, see photo 4).
- Provide sufficient water pressure, at least 0.5 bar continuously.
- Ensure that there is sufficient gas in the propane tank, and that the gas pressure regulator is correctly mounted and opened.
- Properly functioning batteries are required for the ignition to work. Make sure that the batteries are installed in the correct polarity (+/-) and that any protective foil has been removed.
- Check that the gas dial on the water heater is turned open and that the water heater is therefore “on”.
- Check that you are not offering more than the maximum amount of water. If you offer more than 6 liters per minute with the Indoor B6 (resp. 11 or 14 liters with the B11 and B14), the geyser cannot heat this. Then use a shut-off valve to squeeze the supply.
- If everything is in order and the water heater is not yet working, it is important to see what the water heater does and does not do. It is likely that your situation can be found in one of the scenarios below.
4. I hear the water heater ticking, but…
If you open the water tap and hear the water heater ticking but no hot water comes out, it is likely that the battery is no longer powerful enough to open the gas valve in the water heater. This is easily solved by replacing the (almost) empty battery with completely new batteries. Please note, batteries that have been in storage for some time may also not work properly.
Another possibility is if you have just installed a TTulpe B6,11 or 14 that the water heater will have some trouble igniting for the first time because of air in the system. Make sure everything is properly connected and all connectors are tight. Start the water heater several times and make sure that the left knob is turned fully to the left. If all goes well, a flame will light up on the left. You may need to repeat this several times.
If the pilot light burns but the main burner still does not want to ignite, it can help by placing your finger (or something else) on the hole on the pilot burner on the side (the middle of the 3). Note that this can be hot if the pilot flame has been burning for a while.
A third possibility, especially for water heaters that are put into use again after a longer period of time, is that after hot water demand, the water heater continues to tap slowly (to keep the pilot light burning). You can also solve this by screwing in the screw of the hammer (indicated with a blue arrow in photo 2).
A fourth possibility is that the thermocouple is not (any longer) properly inserted in the pilot light. The water heater then does not detect that the pilot light is on and keeps ticking and the main burner does not turn on. This can be remedied by maneuvering the thermocouple into the pilot light with a long screwdriver, for example. This must be done with care and by a recognized installer. Please note that this is a different situation than that the water heater keeps ticking after hot water demand, see point 3.
5. The water heater worked but not anymore
Sometimes the water heater can "think" that it is still on and therefore does not want to start. This is because the microswitch indicating that the water heater is off, is not de-activated.
With the TTulpe B 6,11 and 14, a “hammer” rises when water flows through the water heater, this hammer sometimes does not come down enough to switch off the water heater. You can easily remedy this by turning the screw in it a little downwards (see photo2). The micro switch (the white or black button, see the green arrow on photo 2) is now deactivated when the water flow stops. This can also happen if the water heater has not been used for a while, for example the water heater continues to tap for a long time, the previous action solves the problem.
A second possibility is that there is insufficient draft to discharge the combustion gases. The protection will then take effect after approximately 2 to 3 minutes.
With the TTulpe B6, 11 and 14 you can check this by removing the hood and looking for the safety sensor (TTB) at the top left. This has a reset button, if you press it, the water heater should work again (see photo 3).
On different models you have to wait for the sensor to reset itself after a few minutes, the water heater will work again when you turn it on.
If the situation is not remedied, the sensor will break and the water heater can no longer be used. Replacing this sensor is not covered by warranty.
Warning: These sensors are there for a reason. Using the water heater without safety devices is life-threatening!
NB! If you are not going to use the water heater for a longer period of time, for example during the winter, make sure that the battery is removed. Otherwise, the battery may oxidize the contact point in the battery compartment. There will then no longer be any current flowing from the battery to the ignition, even if the battery has been replaced. You can solve this by carefully disconnecting the wires with needle nose pliers because they are secured and unscrewing the battery compartment. On one side there is a lip that has discolored brown. You can remove the oxidation with a sandpaper. If this doesn't work, you can go to https://www.kiip.shop/productdetails/?d=product&l=4&o=314&p=207 and order a new one.
A fourth possibility is that the thermocouple is not (or no longer) properly inserted into the pilot light. The water heater then does not detect that the pilot light is on and keeps ticking and the main burner does not turn on. This can be remedied by maneuvering the thermocouple into the pilot light with a long screwdriver, for example. This must be done with care and by a recognized installer. Please note this is a different situation than the water heater continuing to tick after hot water demand.
6. The flue pipe generates too little draft
This may be the case with atmospheric water heaters. This means that it is a device without a fan. The exhaust gases must then be discharged out of the appliance by natural draft.
The flue pipe must not have a smaller diameter than the connection, after which the pipe must run at least half a meter vertically. Regarding the dimensions and laying of the chimneys and their connecting flues, the local regulations must be followed carefully.
The water heater is equipped with a safety device (flue gas thermostat or TTB) that interrupts operation in the event of insufficient chimney draft or blockage. This device should never be manipulated or deactivated for your own safety!
Flexible pipes, kinks, too narrow channels or constrictions and very long channels reduce the draft and can cause the water heater not to work properly. For the correct dimensions of the flue pipes, see the manual or our website.
7. More reasons that the water heater turns on and then off again
- The unit only works with a supply of at least 3 liters per minute (6 liter models, 5.5 liters for 11 liter models and 7 litres for 14 liter models) and a minimum pressure of 0.5 bar.
- Strong wind.
- Too little gas. Propane gas cylinders are sometimes contaminated with air, especially new tanks that have been filled for the first time. Switch the unit on and off several times (5) to remove the air from the gas supply.
- The thermocouple should be well lit and glow orange.
- The gas sensor wiring may be loose. Check whether all wiring and / or connectors are still tight.
- If the water heater switches off after about 2 to 3 minutes, this may indicate a problem with the flue gas discharge.
- A defective gas pressure regulator. A gas pressure regulator is also a mechanical part and can break. To exclude this, it is best to try with another (new) pressure regulator. Pay attention to the correct gas pressure and the correct capacity.
8. The water is not getting hot enough
- This is possible if you use the system at an altitude above 1800 meters. Although the system has been tested up to an altitude of 2200 meters, usage above 1800 meters is not recommended.
- Too much water flows through the appliance. Prevent more water flowing through the water heater than it's maximum capacity, which depends on your type (for example; TTulpe B11 is max 11ltr / min.) You can measure this by e.g. fill a bucket with a known volume and measure how long it takes to be filles at maximum flow (volume ÷ secondsx60). The water reaches its maximum temperature at half the specified maximum capacity. It is best to mount a tap for the cold water connection of the water heater to “squeeze” the amount of water.
- The incoming water is very cold. It is normal that when the entering water is colder, the outgoing temperature is lower. This mainly occurs at cold temperatures or when water from cold streams or a source is obtained.
- Look in the panels (through the window on the front) to see if there is a blue flame. If the flame is yellow, something e.g. an insect or spider could be stuck in the burner tubes, if you remove it it should burn well again. If there is no contamination in the burner tubes, it is possible that there is a crack in the gas regulator. Do not use the unit and call our technical service immediately on tel. +31-229-842424!
- If the flames burn irregularly, high and then low again and sometimes even (almost) out, there is something wrong with the water supply. It is a combination of water pressure and water quantity. Check how much water flows through the water heater per minute. This should be approximately equal to your model at maximum flow. So with a TTulpe Indoor B14, for example, that is 14 liters per minute. If that is not 14 liters but let's say 11 liters, the water heater will not burn properly. If the water quantity is correct but still burns irregularly, it is due to the water pressure. In the first case, try to increase the water yield, and in the second - the pressure. This can be solved by using a water pipe of a larger diameter or possibly by means of a TTulpe water pump. https://www.propanegaswaterheaters.com/en/products/waterpressurepumps/ttulpe-flow-meister-1312-water-pressure-pump/
With parts that are in the burner (such as the thermocouple and the spark plugs) it is NORMAL that the fire shows a yellow flame and is completely safe!
9. My water heater is leaking water
Your water heater should not be leaking water, see if you can see where the water is coming from.
If it leaks at one of the connections. Reconnect the pipes with sufficient Teflon tape and check whether this has been rectified.
If it leaks elsewhere, take a picture of the place where it leaks, close the water supply and send the picture to us at email@example.com, we will contact you as soon as possible on how to fix it.
Warning! The open water heaters are not frost protected! Frost damage often causes major damage and is not covered by warranty!
10. I close the tap but the water heater remains lit (for a while)
If you close the water tap and your water heater remains lit for a while, a dangerous situation can arise. Stop using your water heater until the problem is corrected. The mechanism that closes the gas valve when the water flow stops is faulty. The water can start to boil and builds up pressure in your water heater, which can cause leakage or hot water to be discharged through the overpressure system. There are several reasons that this can happen, for example due to (long-term) excessive water pressure and wear. The gas water valve must be replaced, we recommend that this be done by a recognized installer or by a technician in our workshop, because the gas connections are broken. You can order the part on our website (with parts), before ordering, check your water heater type so that you receive the correct gas-water combination valve.
Before you uninstall and return your device, we would like to ask you to send us an email ( firstname.lastname@example.org ) with the following information:
- A photo of the entire installation, showing the connections for water, gas and drain pipe;
- A photo of the water and gas connections (supplemented with a gas pressure regulator if necessary)
- Any detail photos
- Order or invoice number
- Clear description of the problem and what you have already tried to solve it
Although it is sometimes necessary for the device to be checked or repaired by our technical department, in many cases the problem can be solved remotely by means of the photos and description so that you can quickly enjoy hot water. This is how you prevent that; transport costs at your own expense, research costs may be charged, but more importantly, that you are not without hot water for longer than necessary. If, in our opinion, a return is necessary, we will send you a return label so that you can send the device free of charge.
In the event that the device has to be returned to us, please observe the following:
- Pack the device properly! (preferably in the original packaging incl. outer box) so that no transport damage occurs
- If possible, please also send the used gas pressure regulator and hose
- Make sure that there is no more water in it.